Day 10 - Heading Back to the North

Read full story and photos here.

Today began in Tartu, but we packed up and made our way to Tallinn to prepare for the Laulupidu ja Tantsupidu (Song and Dance Festival). This incredible celebration is more than just music and dance, it's deeply rooted in Estonia’s history, connected to the Singing Revolution and our peaceful fight for independence in 1991. But before heading north, we stopped at one of our favourite Käsitöö (handicraft) shops in Tartu. It’s always full of surprises, and today was no exception.

As soon as we walked in, I was taken aback by a stunning display of traditional rahvariided (folk costumes). One particular blue set caught my eye, it matched some fabric I’d bought on a previous trip, which my mum used to make a skirt for my sister. I asked to see the kais (shirt) up close and thought I'd try it on. To my shock, it fit perfectly, something that rarely happens. I was overwhelmed with emotion; it felt like coming home, like truly stepping into my Estonian identity. After a bit of overthinking and negotiation, I decided to buy it. One extra night shift back home is worth it for something so meaningful and beautiful, and I’m still within budget!

Along the way, we visited the mysterious ‘Witches Well’, a peaceful forest spot mum had wanted to see for years. The well was dry today, though we learned it overflows in spring. We also discovered a little closed café in a wooden hut that sparked ideas for my own future Käsitöö space. It was a quiet, magical place, and even the drop toilets were cute! Nearby, vibrant red poppies were in abundance, so unexpected and beautiful.

Arriving in Tallinn, I drove the final stretch, nervously navigating trams and tight turns, but got us to the apartment safely. Once settled, we wandered into Old Town via the Viru Gates. Though our favourite fabric store was closed, the owner let us know she’d be open the next day. We explored familiar shops and streets, full of memories and emotions at the thought of my grandfather running around here as a child. Mum’s favourite antique shop was still there, and the owner even remembered her. Naturally, mum couldn’t resist buying another piece of jewellery.

We visited the town square and a beautiful Käsitöö shop filled with handcrafted Estonian items. There, we bumped into fellow Australians, hard to miss with so many Estonian Aussies in town for the festival. Later, we had dinner at our go-to pizza spot, another family tradition on our first night in Tallinn.

The evening ended at Freedom Square, Vabaduseväljak, a place close to my heart. My great-grandfather received a Freedom Cross for his role in the War of Independence, so standing there always fills me with pride. It was the perfect welcome back to Tallinn.