Day 23 - Back to the Mainland and Craft Camp!

Read full story and photos here.

Today we left the island earlier than planned after discovering we could board an earlier ferry in a different lane. The boat was crowded, but we made it. Our first stop back on the mainland was Pärnu to see the 1944 Mass Flight monument. Unfortunately, it was surrounded by scaffolding, alarms, and security, so we admired the park instead before enjoying familiar wood-fired pizza.

Driving toward Viljandi, we passed through Tori. Its modern church stood out from Estonia’s older styles, and a triathlon was underway. We stumbled upon a Käsitöö barn selling handmade goods from over 100 Estonian makers, including honey lemonade. I also learned Tori horses originated there. Continuing, we drove through Soomaa National Park’s incredibly dense forests, sparking talk of the Forest Brothers who resisted Soviet occupation for decades.

In Viljandi, an older neighbour chatted with Dad at length, our new family term for this is “getting brauad.” In the muggy house, I learned “ventilaator” means fan in Estonian and bought a USB one for better sleep.

Later, we caught up with Matti and Maie before heading to the Grand Viljandi Hotel for Craft Camp registration. It was great seeing so many Australians. A highlight was meeting Katlin, our 2019 Kihnu tour guide, who remembered Dad instantly. She reassured me my UNESCO-listed rahvariide skirt could be worn with or without an apron after my divorce.

The day ended with warm reunions, cultural connection, and excitement for tomorrow, when I’d weave like my great-grandmother.