Day 8 – Setomaa and Cultural Connections

Read full blog and photos here.

Today started simply, breakfast, then a trip to the shops to get a few things for the family party. At the supermarket, I spotted some familiar products I hadn’t seen in 20 years, since I lived in Estonia. It was a nostalgic moment, especially seeing the milk cartons decorated with folk costume designs for the song and dance festival.

After shopping, I met Maria, a Facebook connection, and we headed off to the Setomaa Leelopäev in Värska. On the way, we passed through Põlva, which was so cute, I had to stop and take a photo, especially since I had a pen with the same design! Maria was a great sport about the detour.

When we arrived in Värska, the festival was already underway. Before even entering, someone I met 2 years ago recognised me. It felt like coming home. Inside, there were people everywhere in Seto folk costumes, each one a little different, all very beautiful. I browsed through shops selling belts, brooches, and ribbons, and organised a custom headpiece for Mum. I also helped some British travellers by translating in Estonian, which I was pretty proud of!

Lunch was traditional Seto food, pirukad, garlic bread, Seto puder, and honey cake. I ordered everything in Estonian, I was also proud of this. Throughout the day I caught up with old friends, including a woman who taught me card weaving years ago. I finally told her how much that day meant to me, it felt like being with my grandmother. She hugged me, and I got quite emotional.

We watched dancing, learned more about Setomaa traditions, and heard how the best cultural pieces are now in Petseri, across the Russian border. I’d love to visit one day, but it’s complicated. I ended the day with a family party at Monica and Indrek’s, reconnecting with cousins and sharing stories late into the night. It was beautiful.