Discover Kihnu Island, Estonia’s Living Tapestry of Tradition and Culture
The day started much earlier than I’d have liked, so early, in fact, that I completely slept through my alarm and had to be woken by Mum at 5:15 a.m! We quickly got ready and made our way to the car park, where the bus was waiting to take us on a two-hour journey to the new Kihnu ferry terminal, just past Pärnu. On the ride, I sat next to a lovely woman named Lauren from New York. We chatted the whole way, comparing life in the U.S. to how it looks from the outside. It was fascinating, and definitely made me grateful to live elsewhere!
When we arrived, I noticed the terminal was much smaller than the one for Muhu Island. There were only a few cars and no buses, so we walked straight onto the ferry. We’d been promised coffee for the hour-long ride, but the coffee machine was broken, you can imagine the disappointment among the half-awake passengers. Thankfully, there was plenty waiting for us at the other end.
Once we docked on Kihnu Island, our first mission was clear: find coffee. Refreshed, we climbed onto a big open truck that would be our transport for the day. We were told that during weddings, they remove the seats and somehow fit a hundred people in the back! Before setting off, we were treated to freshly baked pirukad, warm, golden pastries that take ages to make properly. These were some of the best I’ve ever had; even Mum agreed. I think it’s the dough, I really need to work on mine!
As we began our drive, our guide, Kaithlin, gave us an overview of the island using a map at the harbour. Luckily, Kihnu is small enough to explore in a single day, so we had plenty of stops ahead. Our first visit was to Käsitöö talu, a handicraft house where a local woman makes and sells handmade items year-round. I bought friendship bracelets for myself and my two best friends, they felt symbolic, coming from an island run by strong women. Dad looked around, too, thinking about how the design might inspire my own future workshop ideas.
Next, we visited the Kihnu Lighthouse, a tall, graceful landmark that’s been guiding sailors for generations. Kaithlin shared how she’d come to appreciate its light during her research trips at night, and we talked about the island’s debate over proposed wind farms nearby. In the gift shop, I found a short, beautifully woven belt using an enlarged sock-weaving technique. While browsing, I watched a little girl confidently buy something on her own, and her pride made my heart melt.
After that, we headed to the church and museum. As a Kihnu woman, Kaithlin covered her head before entering, a tradition still followed today. Women sit on one side, men on the other, and everyone wears the national costume daily. I lit a candle inside, taking a quiet moment for reflection, before wandering across the road to discover a playground painted in the colours of the Kihnu skirts. It was so joyful I couldn’t stop smiling.
At the museum, I admired art inspired by Kihnu women and bought another belt, purple and sparkly this time. Inside, I photographed the old loom and traditional skirts, learning how each colour represents mood and age: bright red for youth and celebration, darker tones for older women.
By the end of the day, I felt deeply moved. Kihnu isn’t just a beautiful island, it’s a living, breathing culture, held together by strong women, bright colours, and traditions that refuse to fade.
